The Really Cool Thing About These Soups

Although the exact origin of cold soup can’t be pinpointed, these chilled nectars can be found from the tropics of the Caribbean to the fjords of Scandinavia.
 

The history of soup is as old as the history of cooking. Since soups are easily digestible, they are often referenced in ancient writings as remedies for various ailments. And as much as a hot soup may be food for the soul in the depths of winter, cold soups can have a similar effect in those dog days of summer.

Although the exact origin of cold soup can’t be pinpointed, these chilled nectars can be found from the tropics of the Caribbean to the fjords of Scandinavia. Russia may be known for hot borscht, but their chilled version, served with a dollop of sour cream, is just as popular. Credit a French chef for creating one of the fanciest names for a chilled soup: vichyssoise. Created by the late chef Louis Diat of the New York Ritz Hotel, this creamy chilled potato and leek-based concoction was named for his hometown of Vichy, France.

I look at chilled soups as the ultimate “fast food.” Recipes usually incorporate raw vegetables and fruit and are quickly mixed together in a blender or food processor. Cold soups range from sweet to savory, with fresh herbs and spices often added for extra flavor.

Throughout my years as a chef, I’ve created a multitude of chilled soups. My favorite, of course, involves cherries. My take on a chilled cherry soup is to couple those tart Montmorency cherries that grace our area throughout July with a touch of Pinot Noir wine. Although other red wines can be used, I find that Pinot Noir is a great all-purpose selection, adding just enough depth to a dish without overpowering the other ingredients. The soup makes a memorable first course at a summer al fresco dinner party, but it’s equally appealing as an unexpected dessert. Serve the ruby-colored soup in a wine goblet or martini glass and top with a scoop of tart lemon ice cream or sorbet for a standout dinner finale.

On the other color (and taste) spectrum is my white gazpacho recipe. Although tomato-based versions are the most common preparation, white gazpacho – or ajoblanco – is an interesting alternative. Crustless bread is combined with blanched almonds and garlic along with cucumbers, garlic and shallot. The addition of green grapes, extra-virgin olive oil and a generous splash of sherry wine vinegar finish the flavor profile of the dish. A terrific make-ahead recipe, the soup is topped with a garnish of red or green grape slivers and almonds.

And finally, I always enjoy a twist on an original classic. Give Chef Diat’s original vichyssoise a Midwestern flair with the addition of just-picked sweet corn kernels. Make the soup extra corny by using those stripped corncobs to enhance the soup stock. A smack of cumin and white pepper finishes the soup that gets a finishing garnish of finely-chopped fresh chives.